Elba, Italy

Elba is a Mediterranean island in Tuscany, Italy, 10 kilometres from the coastal town of Piombino, the largest island of the Tuscan Archipelago. It is located in the Tyrrhenian Sea, about 50 kilometres east of the French island of Corsica. The island is part of the province of Livorno and is divided into eight municipalities, with a total population of about 30,000 inhabitants, which increases considerably during the summer.

Everyone who gets sent to exile should be as lucky as France’s Emperor. Napoleon Bonaparte might have been irritated that his empire was being stolen out from under him, but he still managed to make the most of his eight months and 22 days on the island of Elba, a bucolic slice of Mediterranean paradise off the northwest coast of Italy.

Elba is the largest remaining stretch of land from the ancient tract that once connected the Italian peninsula to Corsica. The northern coast faces the Ligurian Sea, the eastern coast the Piombino Channel, the southern coast the Tyrrhenian Sea, and the Corsica Channel divides the western tip of the island from neighbouring Corsica. The island itself is made up of slices of rocks which once formed part of the ancient Tethyan seafloor.

The legend is that Venus’ necklace broke, dropping her jewels into the sea, and one of those jewels became Elba. This island, just 224 square kilometers (86.5 square miles), has attracted and been governed by the Lugurians, Greeks, Etruscans, Romans, Spanish and finally, Italy. The mountain regions had been rich in iron ore that, once mined, was smelted by fires so numerous that the Greeks named the island Aethalia, which means “spark.”

The cruise ship dock is in the middle of town at the bottom of the Fortezze Medicee. To the left, as you leave your ship, is the central business district and ferry docks; to the right, as you round the bottom of the Fortezze, is the marina with the yachts and upscale shops.

The local currency is the euro – the U.S. dollars are not accepted. There is a bank on Calata Italia (which fronts the port) just past the first ferry dock (Pontile com. TE G. Massimo) if you are going to use an ATM; there is a change office on the same street just before the ferry dock if you want to change dollars or pounds to euros, and there is a post office (to change traveler’s checks, which banks won’t touch) above the marina on G. Gasribaldi near the Piazza della Repubblica.

Be aware that Elba is part of Italy, not France, so Italian is the language. Very little English is spoken here, however if you plan on venturing beyond the organised tours. If you intend arriving in Elba from the European mainland, the island is connected to the mainland via the four ferry companies, Toremar, Moby Lines, Blunavy and Corsica Ferries – Sardinia Ferries, all offering routes between Piombino and Portoferraio, the capital located in the north, Cavo, Rio Marina and Porto Azzurro, on the east coast of the island. There is an airport on the island, Marina di Campo Airport. It is served by SkyWork Airlines and Silver Air with flights to Italian mainland and Switzerland.

Plan and Book:

Overview

Porto Ferraio, the largest city and biggest port on Elba, is located in a protected harbour, which makes it an ideal haven for yachtsmen from all over the Mediterranean. And indeed, the marina area is rich in shops and cafes that cater to the sailors who convene here. But long before this, Admiral Nelson called Porto Ferraio the “safest port in the world” because of the way it’s surrounded by bluffs with exceptional sightlines; the Greeks believed it was the port of call of the Argonauts and named it Argoos.

This is a charming port stop for smaller ships; you won’t find mass-market behemoths disgorging their guests onto these shores. The fact that it’s small and easily negotiable on foot make it an ideal day out for those who enjoy simple pleasures. And for those who choose to explore more of the island of Elba, well, that’s easily accomplished as well.

If you’re going to spend your time in Porto Ferraio, almost all of it is accessible on foot. The climb to Napoleon’s city house and to the fortresses can be difficult for those with mobility problems, but there are plenty of taxis. There are also tourist vans that do a tour of the city and surrounding areas, and during the summer, from the end of May to the end of August, there’s a little tourist train (on wheels) that offers a series of different sightseeing tours from two to four euros. All options are easily accessed from the parking lot in front of the ship’s dock.

Just adjacent to the ship’s dock is a cafe bar, a nice place to stop for a coffee. It’s located in the parking lot adjacent to the dock. Across the street is a large bakery/gelatteria where you can grab a sweet bite and watch the maritime activity, including all the ferries coming and going to and from the mainland. There’s also a little dockfront square with nice benches; its breezy location is lovely on a hot summer’s day.

Attractions and Activities

Fortezze Medicee: When construction was started on this stunning crenellated fortress in the mid-1500’s, Elba was under the governance of Spain, and the structure was built for the behest Cosimo I, Grand Duke of Tuscany, with the blessing of King Charles V. The fort proved its worth in 1553 when, sent by the French to try to capture Elba, the Turkish pirate Dracut decided that the port was impenetrable and departed.

Villa dei Mulini: (Napoleon’s Palace, Phone: 0565-915846) When Napoleon Bonaparte was exiled to sleepy little Elba in 1814 (when the island “belonged” to France), he certainly made the most of his “imprisonment.” Of course he didn’t realize that he wouldn’t be staying long, so he built an elaborate villa above the city, near Fort Stella, using a simple Tuscan structure as its base. Most of it is unchanged from his stay, with artifacts such as art works, furniture and documents preserved for public viewing. Closed Tuesdays.

Dell’ Open Air Museum Italo Bolano: (Phone: 0565-914570) Elba’s current favorite son, contemporary artist Bolano, has a gallery/museum in the “open air” that visitors can wander through. The artist features paintings, sculptures, ceramics and glass works; of course you can purchase items as well as gawk at them.

Museo della Misericordia: Located next to the church of the same name, this important little museum holds, among other things, Napoleon’s death mask (we’re not sure how it arrived here from Devil’s Island, but most of the items were donated by Prince Anotolio Demidoff, Napoleon’s nephew, who was left in charge of many of the French Emperor’s effects).

Villa San Martino: (Phone: 0565-914-688) Napoleon Bonaparte decided that his palace in Porto Ferraio wasn’t enough, so he also built a “summer villa” inside an old church. Still standing, and updated by Prince Demidoff to include his gaudy monograms strewn around, it’s the cottage in the back where the Emperor really thrived, wrote and relaxed. The villa is located about two miles south of the city and is accessible by cab.

Following the Treaty of Fontainebleau, French Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte was exiled to Elba after his forced abdication in 1814, and he arrived at Portoferraio on May 30, 1814. He was allowed to keep a personal guard of six hundred men. He was nominally sovereign of Elba, although the nearby sea was patrolled by the French and British navies. During the months that Napoleon stayed on the island, he carried out a series of economic and social reforms to improve the quality of life, partly to pass the time and partly out of a genuine concern for the well-being of the islanders. Napoleon stayed on Elba for 300 days. Hearing that the Congress of Vienna planned to remove him further from Europe and that the more popular and reformist Duke of Orleans was planning to replace his relatives, ruining any chance of Napoleon’s popular recall, the former emperor escaped on a ship under British colors to France on February 26, 1815, for the Hundred Days. After his defeat at Waterloo, he was subsequently exiled again, this time to the barren and isolated South Atlantic island of Saint Helena.

The island has a network of trails for road racers looking for more technical routes for their training, trails and dirt roads for bikers to have fun on, and accessible routes for families with children who need safe and relaxing routes. On the road from Rio nell’Elba going to Porto Azzurro is the Fonte di Coppi. Towards the end of his career Fausto Coppi, the Campionissimo, came here to train on the roads of Elba. He still retained a celebrity status but was no longer at the peak of his career that ended with his death a few years later. The plaque on the fountain reads: “1960–2010, here the champion quenched his thirst, since fifty years on the run”.

You can relive the ancient history of Elba with wonderful and inspirational history. For example, take a tour of the Spanish forts of the XVII Century, which conclude with a special visit to the Cala di Mola. This fortress was one of the most important in protecting the island and witnessed many of the wars that took place here. If you prefer a more beautiful testimony to the Renaissance, you must not miss a trip to the Medici walls in Portoferraio.


Roman columns of granite at San Piero

You can also take a trip to the Etruscan walls on the coast above the town of Procchio. Marina di Campo and Portoferrario are also great locations to indulge in history. Do not forget the Roman villas at Claudia and the caves of Portoferraio and Agrippa Pianosa. Here, you will really get a taste of the ancient opulence of the island.

There are many places on the island where you can breathe the art of Elba. If you take a trip across the Salita Napoleone, the rose stone staircase in the historic center of Portoferraio, you can reach the former barracks De Laugier. Today, the barracks have become the cultural centre that is home to the Pinacoteca Foresiana and its permanent collection of 800 pieces of artwork. It is also easy, and wonderful, to get lost in the small villages of the island. They will give you the opportunity to rediscover the art of Elba and those famous artists who have made it known worldwide. For example, the legendary – and bohemian – painters of the Dunes that brought so much good attention to Elba. They are artists of a different trend and state of mind who have camped since the 50’s on the wild beach of Procchio. This stunning beach has continued to give them the desire and inspiration to represent the splendor that is Elba. At one point, they were even joined by the great painter De Chirico.

Beaches of Elba

Procchio Beach (Sand) Elba Island: one of the largest and prettiest beaches on the island, and is divided over three localities: Procchio, Camp all’Aia, and Guariola on the extreme right, where the gulf closes in on itself to form an enchanting inlet.

Pomonte Beach (pebble): In the town of Pomonte there are three beaches within a range of 1 km. In front of one of these (that of Quartiere), near Ogliera Rock, at a depth of 9 m (plainly visible from the surface) lies a cargo ship sunk in 1972. Don’t miss a chance to see the huge wreck, by now the habitat of numerous species of fish.

Lacona Beach (sand): The beach, situated in the gulf of its namesake, is one of the biggest on the island and is at the disposal of many camp sites.

Padulella, on the northern side of the Island, is a white pebble beach, near Le Ghiaie and Capo Bianco, with many facilities and clear sea. You can get to this beach from two different places, both, however on the road that goes from Portoferraio to Le Ghiaie, following the signs for Padulella, Enfola. La Spiaggiola Beach La Guardiola (Sand): Very popular in the low season , as the bay is sheltered from the wind, making the outside temperature is higher than the other beaches is water. The beach has no services , but we find the bar / restaurant at the nearby beach of Guardiola at 200m


Spartaiai Bay, Portoferraio: it is located in a narrow inlet between the beaches of Procchio and Paolina. La Sorgente Beach (Pebble): A beautiful and peaceful little white pebble beach that shows off the clarity of the water.

Remaiolo Beach (sand and pebble) Capoliveri: The Remaiolo beach is located in the vicinity of an old cave, from which Pyrite was excavated, and which is now a mineral park.

Bagnaia Beach (sand and pebble): The beach is located in the little town in front of Portoferraio Bay.

Fenicia Beach (pebble) Marciana Marina: Fenicia Beach is located to the extreme left of the town.

Sansone Beach (Pebble): This white pebble beach is always very peaceful, perhaps because it isn’t that easy to find. However, it’s worth while searching it out for the clarity of the water and the peace that reigns there. The only way to reach it is to get to the Sorgente Beach area, where a little 200 m street joins in. Sorgente Beach is located 5 km from Portoferraio and is accessible by a path near the Enfola-Viticcio crossroad.

Le Viste Beach (Pebble): It is located on the North side of Portoferraio.
The beach FIND within the Private fishing at Scoglietto (little island a few hundred meters in front of the beach) .
This makes it one of the places more attractive rate for snorkeling. It is located on the North side of Portoferraio.

Porticciolo Beach (Sand): A tiny beach located 700 m to the left of Biodola.

Galenzana Beach (Sand – pebble): A very pretty beach and little frequented because it is only accessible by foot.

Morcone Beach (sand) Capoliveri: Only a short piece of coast separates the beautiful beaches of Morcone and Pareti, both well-equipped for tourism.

Acquaviva Beach (Pebble): It is exposed to the North, and adjacent to the beach is a camping site: the ideal place for camping enthusiasts.

Ortano Beach (sand and pebble) Rio Marina: The beach is furnished with numerous services. You can make an excursion to the island of the same name which is located less than 10 minutes away by pedalo.

Naregno Beach (sand) Capoliveri: A big beach with a lot of infrastructure, only the long and narrow spur of Cala di Mola separates it from the town of Porto Azzurro. To the right of the beach, on the extreme tip of Capo Focardo is the fort of the same name built in 1678.