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Portofino, Italy

Portofino is so quintessentially Italian, so synonymous with the Italian Riviera, that it’s hard to imagine that at one time it was actually part of France … but it was! From 1805 to 1815 that feisty, self-proclaimed Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte decided to annex the entire region into his empire. Ever since Pliny the Elder founded Portofino, this wonderful corner of the Mediterraean has been a magnet for leisure seekers. Pliny, a Roman author, naturalist, and natural philosopher, as well as naval and army commander of the early Roman Empire, named it Portus Delphini, or Port of the Dolphin, because of the large number of dolphins that inhabited the Tigullian Gulf. In the late 19th century, first British, then other Northern European aristocratic tourists began to visit Portofino, which they reached by horse and cart from Santa Margherita Ligure. Aubrey Herbert and Elizabeth von Arnim were amongst the more famous English people to make the area fashionable. Eventually more expatriates built expensive vacation houses, and by 1950 tourism had supplanted fishing as the town’s chief industry, the waterfront became a continuous ring of restaurants and cafes, and the focal point of this playground for the rich and famous.



The nearest railway station, S. Margherita Ligure-Portofino, is about 5 km away in Santa Margherita Ligure. A train from Genoa takes around 45 minutes. Catch bus 82 from outside the S. Margherita Ligure-Portofino station to Portofino. Purchase tickets before boarding from the station cafe. 3 euro one way, 5 euro return. Much more relaxing, however, is a pleasant ferry ride along the coast. In summer, there is one direct daily departure in each direction from Genoa. It is scheduled to allow a pleasant day trip. Otherwise, the region’s well-developed ferry network provides various connections that could get you to Portofino with a change of boats in such as Santa Margherita Ligure.

The closest major airport to Portofino is the Christopher Columbus airport in Genoa (Aeroporto Cristoforo Colombo di Genova – (IATA: GOA)). From there you can rent a car, as it is a relatively short (22 1/4 miles, 35.8 km) ride. Overall the drive takes a little over an hour, due partly to some light traffic leaving Genoa and mostly to the roads once you leave the major highway (the A12). A warning to nervous drivers, the streets are quite narrow and windy, as you might expect in a European/Riviera town. Proceed with caution, especially around corners and be alert!

Two other options if you are unable to get to Genoa are Nice, France (Aeroport Nice Cote D’Azur – (IATA: NCE)) and Milan, Italy (Milan Malpensa – (IATA: MXP)). They are a bit farther away but within driving distance and the drive(s) are beautiful.

The nearest railway station, S. Margherita Ligure-Portofino, is about 5 km away in Santa Margherita Ligure. A train from Genoa takes around 45 minutes and costs around 3 euros. Catch bus 82 from outside the S. Margherita Ligure-Portofino station to Portofino. Purchase tickets before boarding from the station cafe.

Much more relaxing is a pleasant ferry ride along the coast. In summer, there is one direct daily departure in each direction from Genoa. It is scheduled to allow a pleasant day trip. Otherwise, the region’s well-developed ferry network provides various connections that could get you to Portofino with a change of boats in such as Santa Margherita Ligure. Expect the ride to take a little longer than driving, but it will certainly be far less nervewrecking!

One final option should you happen to have the resources, just sidle into the harbour or a cove in your personal yacht. Portofino is a popular destination for the world’s wealthy, and the luxurious yachts constantly dot the horizon in this lovely Mediterranean port.





Plan and Book:





Overview


Portofino is on the ‘Italian Riviera’ a loose term usually applied to the stretch of coast in Liguria which borders France. Like its neighbour, the more famous French Riviera, this coastline boasts blue seas, stately resorts with casinos and palms waving along the promenade, and attractive inland villages. The blue waters, the attractive coastline and beaches, and the exceptionally mild climate have long been the Italian Riviera’s biggest attractions. Sheltered from the north by the Maritime Alps, the strip of land by the sea has a micro-climate of its own; with sunshine and comfortable temperatures the whole year round.

Once in Portofino, walking might be your best option. The town is not large and most hotels and beaches are a short walk from the harbour. Alternatively, mopeds seem to be a popular choice for getting about, especially for those people visiting several of the small regional towns like Paraggi or San Fruttuoso on their own schedule. Once again, should you be fortunate enough to have a boat at your disposal, that would be another convenient way to move around the area. There are rentals available in the harbour.

Everything! Truly, the most impressive thing about Portofino is the lifestyle, so running off and “seeing the sights” probably won’t be your number one priority when you plan your trip. There are some notable attractions that might be able to lure you from the beaches, but the view from the harbour or any of the surrounding beaches is unforgettable and one could spend the entire day marveling at it.

Visiting Portofino is a sensual experience, and this being the case you should bring some of those sensual items back with you. There are a couple of small shops in the harbour area offering regional foods and wines for reasonable prices, and so providing a perfect way to extend your time there even after you’ve left.

If you’re more into high fashion, there are several posh boutiques from some of the world’s most famous designers, not surprisingly with some Italian luminaries on prominent display. If shopping is on your agenda you’ll happily be able to peruse the latest designs from Armani, Gucci, Pucci, Ferragamo and Zegna. If you aren’t looking for runway attire, there are also several boutiques with unique items, including one with lovely Murano glass jewelry. A new shop has just opened selling beautiful handmade italian leather handbags its on the right side near Brunello cuccinelli.

Of course there are a few tourist shops and kiosks as well, with the usual assortment of beads, magnets and t-shirts for your browsing pleasure.



Attractions and Activities

One of the best things you can do in Portofino is relax. Walk around the small city, hear the sea, take a rest at the end of the left Marconi quay. There is a small wine bar where you have an occasion to drink something seated less than one meter from the sea.

Usually all the boutiques are open from the end of February until the end of October. Don’t forget to bring something for your shoulders even if you came in the summer time. After 6/6.30pm the sun goes behind the Portofino promontory and cools off considerably.

Also, you can visit San Fruttuoso Bay and try to see the sculpture of Christ of the Abyss. The easiest way to reach San Fruttuso is by sea (if weather conditions allow). You can choose a public boat at reasonable price. If the money is not a problem, try to rent a small taxi boat. It’s an unforgettable experience. If you have sensible footwear you can also walk there via a 90 minute hike (2.5-3 hours return).

If you have some days off, you can also visit the Acquarium on Genoa (30 km from Portofino) – the biggest one in Europe – and walk around the port streets. There are a lot of museum and historical buildings.


Castello Brown is a 16th century castle/fort, once used for the area’s defense, but now primarily a museum with a fantastic view of the harbour and the Mediterranean Sea.

The church of St. Martin (Divo Martino) is around the corner from the harbour and is a quaint, stylish little chiesa from the 11th century. It’s definitely worth taking a casual stroll around it.

The ferry service from Portofino harbour provides frequent service to Santa Margherita Ligure, which also boasts a beautiful public beach. In that slightly larger town you’ll also find more shopping and with a little walk off of the main road you will find several shops specializing in local foods and libations, and lining the streets will be antique dealers with all kinds of aged treasures.

Regional Destinations



Genoa

Genoa is a sort of decayed glorious port town, whose decay, however, is what makes it so interesting and pretty. The facades of grand palaces are hidden in scruffy, yet enticing alleyways, and there are really curious treats for anyone in virtually every alley. The city is your “typical” Italian one – quite sunny (during summer), with Mediterranean-looking houses topped by grey slate roofs, filled to the brim with outdoor cafes and bars, with lots of tiny and quirky alleyways, elegant designer shops, and restaurants. Today, also, the old port has been renovated, and currently contains some funky avant-garde modern architecture, a delightful marina, and several seaside bars and shops.

Genoa today, as a tourist attraction, is often shadowed by cities such as Rome or Venice, even though it has a long history as a rich and powerful trade centre. However, with its multitude of hidden gems behind cozy alleyways, excellent cuisine (notably fish and seafood), renovated old port, beautiful sights (including one of Europe’s biggest aquariums), and its position as the European Capital of Culture in 2004 have made the birthplace of explorer Christopher Columbus an enticing place which is gradually becoming more included as a tourist destination. With pastel-coloured terracotta-roofed houses, artistic churches, lovely seaside villas, and also several luxurious boutiques, Genoa is a must see if you want to experience the “quintessential” Italy.

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